What Is PMI? Private Mortgage Insurance Definition
Private mortgage insurance (PMI) is insurance that protects the lender — not you — when a down payment is below 20%. It typically costs 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan amount per year, so a $300,000 loan pays roughly $900 to $4,500 annually, collected monthly on top of principal, interest, tax and insurance.
PMI buys you a house sooner. The question is whether the monthly cost is worth the years of waiting it saves.
The number that matters is the loan-to-value ratio. PMI is charged while your loan exceeds 80% of the home's value. At 0.6% a year on a $300,000 loan that is $150 a month, or $5,400 across the three years a typical buyer takes to reach 20% equity. Paying $18,000 more upfront to reach 20% down avoids that cost entirely — usually the better trade when the cash exists.
How to actually cancel PMI
The three routes below are the legal ones. What catches people is that reaching the right number and then waiting for the servicer to notice is a different process, and it is the part that costs money when it stalls.
- Pay until 78% LTV, then do nothing. If the loan amortises down on its own, cancellation at 78% is the servicer's job under the Homeowners Protection Act, not yours to request. It can take a few months after the balance crosses the line, and the premium is usually refunded for the period after cancellation. Watch for the refund on your next statement; if it does not arrive, ask for it in writing.
- Request cancellation at 80% LTV. A written request puts the ball in the servicer's court and starts a clock. Expect to supply evidence: a statement showing the current balance, proof you are current on payments, and sometimes a new appraisal. Lenders may also want confirmation that no second liens have been placed on the property.
- Refinance once the appraisal clears 80%. This is the route that appeals when the home has appreciated faster than the loan has amortised, because the automatic rule is measured against the original value while a refinance is measured against the current one. You need qualifying credit and enough equity to absorb closing costs, so it is not available to everyone who is overpaying.
Two things are worth checking before you do any of this. First, whether a cancellation fee or a strict appraisal requirement is buried in your own mortgage paperwork — the fee is legal and it is usually the largest single line item people miss. Second, whether a lender offers a lower LTV in exchange for a smaller down payment, which sometimes costs less than the PMI ever did.
What PMI costs and how it is priced
PMI premiums scale with risk: the lower the down payment and the lower the credit score, the higher the rate. A borrower with 10% down and excellent credit might pay 0.3–0.5%; the same loan with 5% down and fair credit can exceed 1.2%. On a $300,000 loan the range is roughly $900 to $3,600 a year.
PMI is not uniform across the market. On conventional loans it is usually a monthly premium or a single upfront payment; some lenders offer lender-paid PMI, which is not free — the cost is folded into a higher interest rate for the life of the loan, and it is rarely removable without refinancing.
The practical comparison: a 10% down loan with $150/month of PMI versus waiting two more years to save 20% down. If home prices rise 4% a year, the wait can cost more in price appreciation than PMI costs in premiums — which is why the decision depends on your specific market, not a rule of thumb.
Three ways PMI ends
1. Automatic termination at 78% LTV. Under the Homeowners Protection Act, the servicer must cancel PMI automatically once the balance reaches 78% of the original value, provided you are current on payments. This is a legal requirement, not a favour.
2. Borrower-requested cancellation at 80% LTV. You can ask for removal once the balance hits 80% of the original value. Some lenders require a current appraisal; most require a good payment history and no second liens.
3. Refinancing after appreciation. If the home's value has risen, a new appraisal may put you below 80% LTV even with the same loan balance. Refinancing at that point removes PMI — and is often the fastest route for buyers who put down 5–10% into a rising market.
Note the difference in denominator: the automatic rule uses the original value, while refinancing can use the current appraised value. That distinction is why many borrowers pay PMI years longer than necessary.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is PMI insurance?
PMI (private mortgage insurance) is insurance you pay each month when your down payment is below 20%. It protects the lender — not you — if you default. It ends automatically at 78% loan-to-value or on written request at 80%, under the Homeowners Protection Act.
Does PMI protect me?
No. It protects the lender against loss if you default and the home sells for less than the loan balance. You pay for it, but the benefit flows to the lender.
How do I get rid of PMI?
Three routes: automatic termination when the balance reaches 78% of the original value, a written request at 80%, or refinancing after an appraisal shows the value has risen enough to bring the ratio below 80%.
Is PMI the same as FHA mortgage insurance?
No. FHA loans charge MIP (mortgage insurance premium), which in many cases lasts for the life of the loan and cannot be removed by reaching 80% LTV. Conventional PMI is cancellable; MIP often is not.
Is lender-paid PMI a good deal?
It converts a cancellable monthly premium into a permanent higher rate. Compare the two offers over the expected holding period; if you plan to keep the loan long, borrower-paid PMI that you can later cancel is usually cheaper.